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Hello, dear readers! I’m finishing this travel guide on a plane high above the Atlantic, headed back home from Portugal to the United States.
As you might know, last August — one whole year ago! — I packed my bags and traded California’s sun-soaked coast for Portugal’s even sunnier shores. (There is a whole backstory, but the gist of it: signs from the universe!) Ever since, Lisbon — Portugal’s capital city — has generously lent itself as a home base for my year of adventures around the world.
Now, as I’m folding up clothes, clearing off shelves, and wrapping mugs in old T-shirts (…better methods welcomed) in preparation for the journey home, nostalgia is creeping in. I still suspect this year may have all been a dream. Living here often felt like one.
Don’t get me wrong: Lisbon is far from perfect. For one, its cobbled streets are so slim that passing trams threaten to decapitate unruly arms, ears, and toes; for another, the city was built on seven hills, and you freaking feel it. Nipping into the pharmacy or grabbing a coffee feels more like huffing and puffing up Everest.
Places of business and leisure — gyms, restaurants, shops — often close without warning for the country’s jam-packed holiday schedule. They also close without warning kind of like, all the time, come to think of it.
The postal system is loosely organized at best, vaguely criminal at worst: Portuguese customs is a graveyard for internationally shipped possessions, where many of my care packages, letters, and other treasures have been buried.
Soooo. There is room for improvement.
But while living in Libson tested my reflexes (jump! tram!), patience, and cardiovascular fitness, it also gifted me a nut-brown tan, vinho verde, and an endless supply of days spent frolicking at the beach and feasting on seafood.
Lisbon’s imperfections are wrapped up in its charm: it’s not perfect, but who is! Who cares! This pastel, seaside city lures you in with its wild stretches of ocean, olive-oil drenched plates, and dreamy miradouros. It sneaks into your heart, curls up, and settles in for a while.
So, this is a love letter to Lisbon: a practical love letter that handily doubles as a travel guide by yours truly. I marked my TOP favorites with a little 🌟. Bookmark this post, save it, share it, and without further ado….aproveite!
Where to: Lounge outdoors ☀️
🌟 The gorgeous Jardim Da Estrela park offers free entrance year-round. Spread out with a picnic and a book, roll out your yoga mat, or slap on a bikini and soak up the sun!
Principe Real’s Botanic Gardens provide a peaceful city oasis. Entrance is free on Sunday mornings, €4.00 otherwise.
Jardim Fialho de Almedina is a charming square shaded by an emerald canopy of trees and surrounded by delicious cafés and restaurants. Perfect for reading, people watching, and grabbing a glass of natural wine.
Where to: Unwind and enjoy the city 🤸♀️
🌟 Cine Society shows movies on its outdoor rooftop all summer long. Check the schedule and book in advance, as spots fill up quickly. Blankets provided for free, popcorn and drinks available for purchase!
Drink and Draw hosts meet-ups where you literally show up, drink, and doodle. Strangers become friends! The paint-shy become Picassos! I’ve heard it’s a blast.
The LX Factory is a renovated industrial area housing artisan craft shops, vintage stores, and tons of eateries. Their Sunday market draws in local artists — and crowds! — every weekend. Great for ceramics, local prints, and other trinkets.
Miradouros, miradouros, miradouros! (If you don’t speak Portuguese: viewspots, viewspots, viewspots!) These offer sweeping city views anytime, but are especially magical at sunset. My favorites are:
Santa Catarina (Santos)
Portos do Sol (Alfama)
🌟 São Pedro de Alcântara (Principe Real)
Where to: Eat and drink 🍽️
Cafés
O Cocho was across the street from my apartment, and their daily lunch special and teeny savory Portuguese pastries always hit the spot.
🌟 Marquise da Mobler is my favorite spot for breakfast (mostly because of their gorgeous backyard patio). The juice of the day is always incredible, so are the pastries.
Hello, Kristoff is cute, trendy, and has the best vegan carrot cake in the world. Also exceptional coffee!
🌟 Buna Specialty Coffee is top-tier. Their espresso is amazing. The breakfast mezze plate is dreamy: smoked salmon, avocado, sourdough…the works!
Café Garagem offers gorgeous views: get a drink and watch the sun melt over Lisbon’s rooftops.
Portuguese food
🌟 Tasca do Teimoso serves mouth-wateringly delicious Portuguese. Each dish bursts with flavor and is prepared with so much love. If you only try one spot, go here — it’s our favorite. Even though it’s not fancy, you do need to reserve ahead of time, because it’s just that good!
Lisboa To e Eu is one of my favorite hole-in-the-wall type restaurants in the Alfama, Lisbon’s historic district. Get the sangria and chocolate mousse! (It’s also right next to Miradoura das Portas do Sol, one of the best viewpoints in Lisbon)
O Velho Eurico is a very hip, trendy, cool (but unfussy) restaurant serving typical Portuguese food. Book this ahead and enjoy a night of feeling extra cooool.
🌟 Ponto Final lies across the bridge and offers some of the best sunset dining in town. Catch the ferry there and come early, or make a reservation a few months in advance. Drink, eat, be merry, feel the sea breeze!
La Manteigaria serves some of the best pasteles de nata in Lisbon: egg custard tarts that you CAN’T leave Portugal without trying…I don’t make the rules!
Drinks
🌟 Secret Garden LX is gorgeous for sunset views and drinks. Entry requires a €5.00 membership card, but I’d say it’s worth it.
Magnolia Bistrot & Wine Bar is a perfect weeknight spot to grab a glass of natural wine and small bites with friends.
Javá is a little fancier, and its rooftop offers panoramic views of the city. Great for a few cocktails before hitting the town, or special occasions.
Other yummies
Nivá has the BEST gelato in town. Seriously. It should be illegal. My favorites are pistachio, salted hazelnut, and chocolate a préto.
🌟 Café Tehran serves vibrant Persian dishes under a leafy green patio.
Leonetta for delicious fresh pasta, cheese plates, and cocktails.
🌟 Vesuviano for perfect, melt-in-your-mouth focaccia sandwiches and bowls of ravioli. Casual concept, delicious food.
Coppola for wood-fired pizzas with fresh ingredients.
Pastaria for unreal focaccia, pesto, and cacio e pepe.
🌟 Miss Dumpling for handmade dumplings and local wine (owned by a local and very sweet couple).
Where to: Escape the city for a day 🚊
Cascais is a sweet pocket of beach just 40 minutes from Lisbon by train, bustling with spots for seaside dining and shopping. For a wilder beach, hop in a 15-minute Uber from Cascais to Praia do Guincho.
🌟 Sintra is a must-see day trip, full of whimsical castles and lush green forests. You can spend a whole day wandering the grounds and touring the castles. Also 40 minutes by train. Definitely try a travesseiro — a pillowy puff pastry filled with egg cream and almond — from Casa Piriquita while you’re there.
Costa da Caparica is a huge stretch of beaches to the south of Lisbon, easily accessible by car. You will find lots of Portuguese families, beachside bars, and sand for miles. The further south you go, the more wild and secluded the beaches get!
Other hot tips
If you need a haircut, KOOA is the place!
For a beach and surf weekend getaway, head to Ericeria, Peniche, or Sagres.
For a city getaway, grab the train to Porto for wine, romantic riverside dining, and art galleries.
A few words of Portuguese:
Olá = hello!
Bom día = good morning!
Boa tarde = good afternoon!
Obridaga/o = thank you! (-o if you are boy, -a if you are a girl)
That’s all I’ve got for now: the free airplane movies are calling my name (He’s Just Not That Into You, specifically) and the rest of Lisbon’s hidden gems, well, you’ll just have to discover for yourself.
If you enjoyed this guide, save it and share it with a friend! If I missed anything, shout it out in the comments below! And when you do visit Lisbon, please a) have the best time ever and b) let me know what other jewels you uncover. Until then, ciao! 👋
Xo,
Eden